Category Archives: Geen categorie

GIST/ANTWERPEN/150115/ www.ilbullo.be

I had the pleasure of meeting GIST’s chef Gigi during the Knuthenlund Native Cooking Award in Denmark last year where he was part of the Belgian Team…I did not only discover that he’s a guy passionate about his cooking but also that he could cook and stay focussed in very challenging conditions 😉 So….a visit to his Antwerp based restaurant was on my list for 2015…!!!

We were welcomed with an assortment of high quality cured meat cuts and a chickenliver cream that was evenly delicious,served with nice bread and butter…As I always like to give carte blanche to the chef I asked Gigi to ‘put something together’ for us…

We started with some raw veg (Jerusalem Artichoke, raw, a first time for me, Baby Onion, Radish) served with a very well made dip of anchovy and cream…a great match for the vegetables. Next was a beef tartare with rocket/rucola and shavings of matured egg yolk (yes yes, that actually seems to exist) and dried and smoked tuna roe….just spectacular in it’s simplicity…would have this dish any day…even for breakfast!

Next up was a little dish of smoked eel, fresh cow milk cheese, assorted roots and chirvel….fresh, earthy, smoky….yummie! This was followed by a slice of swordfish, a spinach cream and chard….I was very impressed by the quality and taste of the sword fish…top.

The main was beautifully aged beef with green veg and creamy polenta….very very good…

We ended the meal with some cheese and a succulent peach sabayon accompanying a dessert based on pear…a real treat….

Wine list is very interesting and we choose the deliciously zingy and fresh La Sorga in white….

This was a great discovery of recommendable restaurant serving simple, tasty preparations prepared with high quality ingredients…and above all with a lot of passion….respect!!!!

A look inside Mother Nature’s Treasure Chest….

So, I just got back from Belgium…what a trip it was again! Not only did I eat very well…once more…I also had the opportunity to take a look ‘backstage’…Groothandel Claessens a passionate fruit,veg and so much more wholesaler kindly let me visit their warehouse…A look inside Mother Nature’s Treasure Chest in a way… They had a great selection of citrus fruits, all kinds of seasonal roots, lots of fresh shoots and herbs, superb looking pomegranates and so much more…I can’t wait to go back there every season to see all the wonderful yummieness they deliver to restaurants all across Belgium. Do enjoy the pics and remember….any dish is only as good as it’s ingredients…so chefs, don’t settle for less than top quality!

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This was my culinary year 2014!

So, my culinary year 2014 slowly comes to an end… I invite you to take a look over my shoulder to what has made this year another excellent culinary millésimé…

Without any doubt, this was for me, the year of three great chefs that really reached the level of world class, exceptional cooking… In London, Brett Graham is cooking at his best level ever. Indeed, in the previous years, one or the other inconsistency had kept him away from that top level, but nothing like that this year. The meals we had at The Ledbury were precise, balanced and just f*ing perfect. In Belgium I really feel that Sang Hoon Degeimbre has found his bearings in his beautiful new location in Liernu. What I really love about his restaurant, l’Air du Temps is it’s unique combination of top level vegetable oriented cooking combined with the Korean influences that are perfectly mastered. Sanghoon’s foodpairing driven cooking style offered us our best dinner experience of the year… Of course, someone I certainly have to include here is Filip Claeys of De Jonkman in Bruges (B), Gault Millau made an excellent choice by awarding him the title of Chef of the Year 2015 for Belgium. Not only does he works pure magic with fish, he’s also a passionate defender and promotor of sustainable fishing through Northsea Chefs and Vissers.

It was also the year of the new chefs that…well…are actually not so new, so let’s speak about (relatively) new restaurants instead…David Toutain in Paris, bringing us his creations in his very own personal style, expressing his love for vegetables, without doubt shaped by his time at Alain Passard’s Arpège and his love for travelling, discovering cuisines all over the world and absorbing all those influences to translate them into his own dishes and of course, Mickael Jonsson at Hedone, London, a man with a passion for ingredients and precise cooking techniques second to only very few…so impressive that I visited him 4 times this year.

I have to admit that except for La Vie in Osnabruck, I did not have a clue about the earthmoving changes that took place in Germany over the last decade(s). This year brought me to some truly inspiring places. Chris Bau’s Schlossberg where I discovered a cooking style excelling in precision and search for perfection, inspired and influenced by Japan. A great chef, a dynamic wife in charge of Front of House and one hell of a sommelier….just wow…. I also had the pleasure of staying at the exceptional Traube Tonbach hotel, blessed with the institute of all culinary institutes in Germany, Harald Wohlfahrt’s Schwarzwaldstube… Always great to see how an experienced, much acclaimed chef as Harald manages to stay true to his cooking principles and philosophy without giving the impression of becoming outdated or oldfashioned. In the contrary…the plates he brings are more alive and kicking than ever!

After many years of ‘Facebook friendship’ this year also brought a long awaited visit to Edwin and Blanche Vinke’s Kromme Watergang in Hoofdplaat (NL). No nonsense approach, proud of their origins, in love with the local ingredients… great people…a solid and strong team .A superb meal and a fabulous stay in one of their suites with breathtaking views on the river Schelde delta…Edwin also made it possible for me to experience the Knuthenlund Native Cooking Award in Denmark…a fascinating cooking contest that gave me some unique insights into the way chefs work and into how their training and years of experience allows them to create incredible dishes with only very few resources. Being back in Denmark allowed me to discover another young talent who impersonates the Scandinavian cooking philosophy in the best possible way, Nicolai Norregaard at Kadeau…

Summer and autumn also brought some visits to Bruges. Discovering the new location of Hertog Jan was quite spectacular. I can’t wait to go back in 2015 to see how chef Gert will have settled in after this first very promising visit. Geert Vanhecke at De Karmeliet showed why there was no reason at all to even think about taking away his 3rd *… Bruges is still a favorite destination for me, with restaurants like Rock-Fort, Sans Cravate, Zeno and….the discovery for me of this year in Bruges, BRUUT.

Finally, I discovered that there is hope for Luxembourg! Cyril Molard at Ma Langue Sourit in Moutfort surprised me by delivering a meal that was a very worthy of a 2* restaurant in Paris or London…so we might be seeing a 2* in Luxembourg again soon…In 2015 I will certainly visit other Luxembourgish chefs but also restaurants around Luxembourg…and certainly a second visit to the very promising La Grappe d’Or in Torgny of chef Clément Petitjean.

Thank you to all these chefs and to all the other chefs I had the pleasure to visit this year. Thank you for your hospitality, for your warm welcome, for your passion, dedication and hard work, day after day to offer us, your clients an unforgettable experience!

Knuthenlund Native Cooking Award 2014

Nice little movie about the fantastic Native Cooking Award held at Knuthenlund, the largest organic farm in Denmark this summer….This was a spectacular experience…Again congratulations to all the participating chefs for a truly impressive performance…cooking with the ingredients found on the farm’s premises, prepared in what can be best described as a camping kitchen…creativity, dedication and most of all an incredible passion for cooking is what we saw during these two days in September….It was fantastic to be part of this experience. A big thank you to Edwin Vinke and  Native Cooking Award Team NL, to the people from Knuthenlund and to Laurent Van Parys and his team.

http://youtu.be/E7TM12zXfpo

Fishworks Marylebone, London

I lost track of the numbers of years that I have been going to Fishworks Marylebone….the concept here is very simple…at the front you have the fish shop with stalls packed with ice and beautiful fresh (shell)fish…you enter the dining room by walking through the shop, allowing you to take a good look at what the fishermen brought in with their boats that day…Caught during the night, on the menu for lunch time…Simple….and brilliant.

The interior is sober and clean. Tables are set close to each other, creating a nicely busy atmosphere…And busy it can be as the restaurant often finds itself packed with people, wanting to eat some of the best value quality fish dishes available in this great town.
A wide variety of dishes can be found on the menu with an emphasis on, yes, fish and shell fish. Furthermore, the day’s specials are up on the blackboard. Another very interesting feature of this restaurant is that the dishes also have a wide enough price range to cater for every customer…you can have the modestly priced cultivated seabass or the posh line caught cousin….(the latter is absolutely brilliant in a seasaltcrust). The same goes for the wine list…a really nice and large selection.
The staff are friendly, efficient and professional giving you all the necessary information to help you choose the right dish and, very important, they also give you a price indication if you go for the ‘by the weight’ specials. Finally, they also let you know about the time it could take to prepare this or that more time consuming dish so you don’t have to miss out on an important meeting…or your fish…;-)
One thing is for sure…I’ll be back…..again and again and again…
Fishworks Marylebone
89 Marylebone High Street, London
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Gault Millau Belux 2015

So, after Belgium yesterday, today it was Gault Millau Luxembourg…What have we learned? 1. That this year again, we are blessed with a great number of fantastic restaurants….mainly in Belgium 2. That consistency between the two countries is very hard to achieve 3. That consistency in general is hard to achieve 4. That making any guide is one hell of a though job…so no burning down operation here…just an immense need to know more about the whole process, Philippe Limbourg….over a good glass of wine and some nice food, just saying…