Pleasant revisit to this restaurant. My last visit dated back to 2002 or 2003 when legendary Gérard Rabaey held 3* here.
In 2011, Stephane Decotterd took over the helm after having worked in the restaurant since 1998….together with his charming wife Stefanie, whom he met at the restaurant where she worked as sommelier.
The restaurant currently holds two stars and is soon to undergo a dining room transformation which will complete the transition from the previous owner to the current.
The cooking style of the chef, originally from nearby Fribourg, is definitely terroir oriented and technically high level with an undeniable classic French base.
Throughout the tasting menu, the chef deliberately opts for different styles of cooking and plating. This way, he wants to show the wide array of skills and know-how present within his brigade. This can be slightly confusing for some.
Product wise, we see a chef who is proud of his roots and terroir and rightfully so! Different types of fish, mushroom and venison are sourced locally as well as the famous cream from Gruyère, near chef’s home base Fribourg.
The wine list is extensive and especially in the Swiss wine section they have some solidly good stuff like the brilliant, but hard to find, Sauvignon Blanc from the Geneva area, from Pellegrin. Thumbs up for the very competent and friendly sommelier.
Service was perfect and consistent with what one can expect from a 2*.
Overall, this was a very good meal worthy of the 2* status. All in all not cheap but for this, the strong local currency is to blame and not the restaurant. Curious to see how this restaurant will evolve as there still is upward potential so I’ll keep an eye on what happens in the charming locality of Brent with beautiful views on Lac Leman. A delicate exercise awaits this chef, fine tuning the cooking style and menu conception to go for the 3* status…
Score: 17/20
Where to Eat and Sleep 